Dumpster pads can be made of different materials yet the optimal material is concrete. Consider the incredible amount of downward force that trash trucks and metal dumpsters place on the pavement. Concrete is quite the sturdy material so it will not cause dents, dimples or make any other sort of impact in the surface like asphalt. The result is a preservation of the pavement’s integrity rather than the premature failure created by other materials, especially asphalt.
When a metal rebar or wire mesh is put into the slab, a remarkably strong steel and concrete combination results. This combination can withstand the rigors of excessive force for much longer than asphalt when impacted by a trash truck’s enormous load.
Ideally, the dumpster pad will stretch out about 10 to 15 feet ahead of the dumpster. This positioning allows the front wheels of the trash truck to rest on the pad and absorb the truck’s massive weight. It is important to note that trash trucks commonly leak as a result of the strain placed on the built-in hydraulic system. Thankfully, concrete cannot be negatively impacted by oil that leaks out of these trucks and other vehicles. Such an oil leak or the leaking of the trash truck’s hydraulic fluid will weaken asphalt yet it will not affect the integrity of the concrete slab.
Dumpster Pad Installation Process
- Begin by laying out and marking the space where the dumpster pad will be placed.
- Establish warning barriers to make the work site as safe as possible.
- Create an even and smooth edge by saw cutting/jackhammering the outside border of the existing pad/asphalt.
- Remove the existing material and haul it to the recycling facility.
- The pad should be at least 1/2 foot thick if the subgrade conditions are acceptable. The girth of the concrete should be boosted to 8″ if the subgrade conditions are not up to par.
- If necessary, add crushed stone. You won’t need more than 4-8″. Compact it in-depth with a vibratory tamper.
- Apply 6×6 #10 welded wire mesh. Alternatively, you can use a half inch, #4 rebar to fortify the slab. The rebar must be situated in the shape of a cross and firmly tied with wire. The rebar/wire must also be set on “chairs” to ensure that they remain in the slab’s center. Any rebar/wire that slips to the lower portion of the concrete will not strengthen the matrix.
- Set the concrete with either wood or metal forms. In certain situations, the nearby concrete or asphalt will suffice.
- Use air-entrained concrete with either 3500 psi or 4000 psi to pour the pad. Air entrainment is specifically designed for exterior concrete as it reinforces the material’s integrity when extreme weather hits Tampa.
- Trowel the concrete until level. It might be necessary to score control joints within the slab. Concrete naturally contracts and expands so cracking will occur at some point in the future. If you’re working with a rectangular slab, use the control joints to form square-shaped segments that contain the slab’s cracking across posterity. Industry experts unanimously agree that the square pattern is optimal to mitigate the odds of a random cracking within the slab that leads to cracks within these joints. Do not make the squares any larger than a maximum size of 15’x15′.
- If you’re dealing with egregiously large slabs or surrounding concrete pavement, expression joints might be required. Lean on ACPLM’s pavement aficionados to help with the placement of these expansion joints.
- Once the concrete has partially set, it’s time to apply a broom finish.
- When the concrete has fully set, strip forms and move them away from the work site. If necessary, use nearby dirt to backfill voids where these forms originally existed.
- Discard any leftover debris.
- Let the dumpster pad rest for a week. If necessary, normal, everyday vehicles can traverse the area. Heavy traffic should be redirected away from this sensitive space.
Reach out to ACPLM today for a property analysis and quote. Contact us today at 888-959-9637.